sactyr photography: Long exposure sactyr photography
Showing posts with label Long exposure. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Long exposure. Show all posts

Murrumbateman Startrail


I didn't take much photos since I came back from New Zealand, so I was itching to go out again. Decided the weather is slightly warmer and so I headed out towards Murrumbateman. I have been keeping an eye on some poppy fields out there but they haven't fully bloomed yet, and also waiting for the right light.

Anyway this time I headed out at about 10pm (takes about 30 minutes from Canberra) on a clear night and this is the result.


There is more than one way to do startrails, but this is my preferred method.


My system:

Intel Core i5-2500 3.3GHz
RAM: 8GB
OS: Windows 7 64-bit
Software: Adobe Lightroom 4.2, Camera Raw 7.2, Photoshop CS6

Equipment used:

Nikon D90
Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 (You will need a fast lens like f/2.8)
Tripod
Intervalometer/timelapse remote control (to automate shooting)


Weather and setting up:

Wait for an absolutely clear sky. Any clouds in the sky will ruin the startrails, but in some cases the cloud streaks may add effect to your photo, provided they are not obstructing the startrails. Also avoid full moon nights, as this would mean faint star trails.

Also keep an eye on dew point in the area you're going to photograph. Dew point is temperature at which water in the air condenses and fog up your lens. So never head out if the temperature is close to dew point.

Some startrails would give you circular pattern and this is due to the presence of north and south poles. If you're on Android there is an app called Google Night Sky which tells you where the poles are as you point your phone towards the night sky. As a rule of thumb the South Pole is quite close to the Southern Cross and the North Pole (Polaris) is part of the constellation Big Dipper.

Once you have located the poles, centre them in your camera so that so can get circular startrails around the poles. Or you could aim somewhere in between the two poles to get an image like above.

Startrails are often nice if there is a nice foreground to complement the image. This could be trees, rocks, reflection of the stratrails from a lake etc. Much like landscape photography, without a foreground startrails will lack in composition.


Camera settings:

ISO: 1250
Aperture: f/2.8
Exposure: 40 second exposures, 1 second apart - You will have program this on your intervalometer
Make sure to set your camera in Bulb mode in Manual
Manual focus to infinity.
Number of shots: Usually I will take between 130-150 shots. The more the better to get long lines but it depends on how long you want to wait.

Set up your camera, then take a nap or read a book while the camera is clicking away. This could be an hour or more depending on how many shots you want to take.


In lightroom:

Do the usual such as profile correction for your lens, and remove chromatic aberration (both options are on the right sidebar in Develop module, under Lens Correction)

Also change the white balance to daylight to bring out the colours later.

The easiest way to do this (without having to do for each 130 photos for example) is to profile correct, remove chromatic aberration and change white balance for the first photo, and then select all 130 photos and hit the sync button in the right sidebar, in Develop module.

Once the settings are synced across all 130 photos, right click in any one of the photos with all 130 photos still selected, and Edit in.. > Open as layers in Photoshop.

Please be patient, refrain from clicking anything. I waited close to 2 minutes before the first image started appearing in Photoshop and it took more than 5 minutes to open all images in Photoshop.


In Photoshop:

Select the first image, right click and set Blending option to Lighten. Now right click again and copy the layer style.

Next select all the other images, right click on one of them and paste layer style.

Photoshop will do its thing, and depending on how many shots you have, this could take a while.

Once its done, you will see your startrails photo on screen. Flatten image and save a TIFF.

OPTIONAL: You could post-process further in Photoshop to arrive at your final cut but I prefer to do it in Lightroom. Things I would play around is White Balance, sharpness, contrast, vibrance and saturation.

That should do it. Simple isn't it?

My previous startrail shots here and here.


Motutara Beach


I left Cape Reinga on the morning of 1st October and made my way to Kerikeri Falls in Kerikeri. I had a few shots there but none were salvageable due to water spray. I then made my way to Motutara Beach for a sunset shot and this is the result. The tide was coming in and I was somewhat lucky to hold on my camera over the 5 minute shot.

Motutara Beach has fine black sand, which I believe is volcanic sand, and the contrast against the sunlight made it all the more difficult.

Exposure: 331s
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 11 mm
ISO Speed: 100

Whangerei Falls


After I left Bethells Beach, I headed straight to Whangerei Falls which is located in an suburban area, about 5 minutes from the CBD of Whangerei City! Honestly I was a little surprised that such a decent-sized could be located in a housing suburb. Imagine waking up to the sounds of falls every morning!

Alas city traffic slowed me and I couldn't get the twilight photo I was aiming for, I reached the falls well after twilight. Shooting in RAW enabled me to salvage this shot somewhat.

Exposure: 210s
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 13 mm
ISO Speed: 100

Kitekite Stream 1


On the morning of my second trip, I headed to Kitekite Falls, which is situated on the hinges of the beautiful coastal town of Piha, an hour's drive east of Auckland. I say beautiful because Piha is the only town in New Zealand where it slowly gets into view as you descend from over the mountains, and the Tasman Sea behind it grows majestic.

Kitekite falls is not on Google maps, to get to the carpark (which is the end of Glenesk Road), plug this coordinate into your navigation system: -36.952303,174.48404

All my shots of the magnificent 5 tier falls turned out to be duds - water spray, high position of the sun etc. So instead of that, I present to you - the charming Kitekite stream.

Used Lee 105mm polarizer and GNDs for this shot.

Exposure: 1s
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 11 mm
ISO Speed: 100

Kitekite Stream 2


On the morning of my second trip, I headed to Kitekite Falls, which is situated on the hinges of the beautiful coastal town of Piha, an hour's drive east of Auckland. I say beautiful because Piha is the only town in New Zealand where it slowly gets into view as you descend from over the mountains, and the Tasman Sea behind it grows majestic.

Kitekite falls is not on Google maps, to get to the carpark (which is the end of Glenesk Road), plug this coordinate into your navigation system: -36.952303,174.48404

All my shots of the magnificent 5 tier falls turned out to be duds - water spray, high position of the sun etc. So instead of that, I present to you - the charming Kitekite stream.

Used Lee 105mm polarizer and GNDs for this shot.

Exposure: 6s
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 14 mm
ISO Speed: 100

Hunua Falls


This was my first shot in North Island, New Zealand from my recent trip there in early October 2012. Hunua Falls is a relative unknown, but surprisingly it's just an hour's drive from the bustling Auckland.

Exposure: 0.5s
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 11 mm
ISO Speed: 100

Used Lee 105mm polarizer for this shot.

Beneath


Two-image vertorama of (partial) Milky Way, taken on the way back from Snowy Mountains. The Milky Way was directly above us, and even with a wide angle lens I only managed a partial shot.

My previous shot of the (full) Milky Way here.

Exposure: 30
Aperture: f/2.8
Focal Length: 11 mm
ISO Speed: 1600

Elabana Falls (Top)


This is Elabana Falls within the Lamington National Park near Gold Coast, about 1.5 hours trekking from O'Reilly's Rainforest Resort.

Taken from the top after a bit rock scaling, there was only a metre square space for me to stand on so I can't do much in terms of composition, which brings me to..

I am truly not happy with this photo. My mistake: I focussed on the flowing water. Direct sun on the flowing water meant everything else was underexposed. If I had focussed on the foreground (which was under the shadow of the canopy overhead) I would have gotten a better exposure overall.

Back home I was truly disappointed, though thankfully I had taken +2 and -2 exposures, so managed to blend them into this HDR.

Exposure: 30s
Aperture: f/11.0
Focal Length: 13 mm
ISO Speed: 100

Pink Hues


This is at Lake Burley Griffin, with the National Museum on the right. This location was inspired by Dean Katselas's photo. Taken with ND110.

Exposure: 180s
Aperture: f/11.0
Focal Length: 11 mm
ISO Speed: 100

Morning Dip


[If you're on Chrome, image(s) will appear more saturated then how I intended them to be]

This was taken on the same day as my previous, the day I went on a crazy 3 hour midnight winter trip.

Exposure: 303s
Aperture: f/11.0
Focal Length: 11 mm
ISO Speed: 100

Somersby Lower Falls


Somersby Falls is about 1 hour north of Sydney, on the way to Newcastle. It has several cascades, and this is the Lower Falls. Reached there at mid-day, so the sun was a bit harsh on the background. Should have probably used my ND filters.

Exposure: 5s
Aperture: f/11.0
Focal Length: 11 mm
ISO Speed: 100

Sydney Skyline


This is 2 image horizontal stitch. And yes, I had to cut off the right pillar. This is what happens when I rarely do panoramas and completely forget to take the sky on the left.

I used my ultra-wide for this, the Tokina 11-16mm. This is the first time I took panoramas with ultra-wide, and it wasn't easy due to the distortion in perspective caused by ultra-wides. Photoshop kept spitting back all my photos, Autostitch kept giving me either bulged bridge or a bulged Opera House.

Sharpened on Lightroom, and increased vibrance. No other edits.

Exposure: 20
Aperture: f/11.0
Focal Length: 16 mm
ISO Speed: 100

My Milky Way


10 minutes after I took this photo, I ran over a kangaroo. RIP.

Processed with Topaz Adjust to bring out details, and then a bit in Lightroom.

Exposure: 30
Aperture: f/2.8
Focal Length: 11 mm
ISO Speed: 1600

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Startrails #2!


140 photos, 40 seconds each, 1 second apart, f2/8, ISO 1250.

Stacking method explained here here>>

Buy this photo here>>

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Old Parliament House


Taken over a month back, completely forgot to upload this.

Exposure: 30
Aperture: f/20.0
Focal Length: 16 mm
ISO Speed: 200
Exposure Bias: +2 EV

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St Helens Pier (ii)


Original St Helens Pier's here: http://sactyr.blogspot.com/2012/01/st-helens-pier.html

Played around with the tones for this one. ND110 used.

Exposure 20
Aperture f/22.0
Focal Length 16 mm
ISO Speed 200

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Lost in Fire


This is all that is left from a fire that burnt down Middleton Jetty.

Exposure: 1s
Aperture: f/5.6
Focal Length: 13 mm
ISO Speed: 200

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Startrails!


Finally a clear night sky for Canberran summer (pissing rain and cloudy for the past 2 months). I didn't get there till about 12.30 am. Spent another hour looking for a nice foreground while at the same time it needs to be away from light pollution, but in the end I decided to make do without any foreground. It was an amazing night sky tonight, plenty of shooting stars (I think I spotted 3), the Orion constellation, Southern cross and I even had a partial shot of the Milky Way.

How to shoot startrails:

I was lucky to be able to shoot in the middle of two poles (South and North), but as I mentioned above, this was honestly a coincidence. If you want to shoot startrails with complete circles, then you will need to know exactly where the poles are. If you're in the Southern hemisphere, look for Southern Cross and the South Pole won't be far off. If you have a smartphone, download Google's Sky Map app - available for Android, but not so sure for iPhones.

This is my other startrails photo but with complete circles.

Shooting details:

94 photos with ISO 1250, 40 seconds each, and 1 second apart (to allow the camera to save) - all stacked in Photoshop CS5.

Used an intervalometer (or remote camera timer) to program the exposure length and slept in the car while the camera was clicking away. The 94 is not a pre-determined number. I wanted to take 120 but I just couldn't wait any longer.

Manual focus (focus to infinity), turn off Vibrance Reduction (VR).


Stacking/Post-processing:

Photoshop CS5:
File > Scripts > Load files into stack > Add files (Don't align) > OK.
Select first image, and set blend mode to lighten.
Right click layer, copy layer style, then select the rest of the layers and paste layer style.
Flatten image, save as uncompressed TIFF.

Lightroom:
Increased saturation to bring out the colours.
Then imported to Topaz Denoise to remove noise.
Imported to Color Efex Pro 4 for some extra details. The image was dry otherwise.
Increased saturation in Lightroom again.

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Australian Parliament


Admit it, what's photography in Canberra if you don't take the Parliament (over and over :p)? Initially I wanted to do a HDR on this, but I spent hours on post-processing HDR and it was going nowhere. Discarded everything and started working on the +2 exposure version and this is the result.

Exposure: 30s
Aperture: f/22.0
Focal Length: 11 mm
ISO Speed: 200
Exposure Bias: +2 EV

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Binalong Bay (Bay of Fires)


Bay of Fires is located on the north eastern coast of Tasmania. It get its name from the orange-hued granite rocks, which is caused by lichen. Definitely not a place to be missed if you're going to Tasmania.

ND110 used.


Exposure: 20s
Aperture: f/22.0
Focal Length: 13 mm
ISO Speed: 200

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North Island, New Zealand

 
 

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